Baijiu: A deep dive into China's national spirit for curious newcomers
- Mar 1
- 8 min read
Baijiu (白酒), meaning “white spirit,” and losely pronouned "Bye Joe" in English, is China’s national liquor and the world’s highest-volume spirits category by consumption (Depending on whom you ask, 5-7.5 billion litres of it are drunk every year). Yet outside China, it remains one of the least understood spirits. To some, it is fiery and unfamiliar; to others, it is deeply expressive of place, tradition and social ritual.
Linguistically, it can be quite confusing, too, not least for Chinese nationals trying to talk about their favourite tipple abroad: When asked by a foreigner what they like to drink the most, many native Chinese speakers will inadvertently reply with “white wine”, and they will almost never mean the pale fermented still wine that Westerners associate with that term.
The correct term for the category of drinks that Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc fall into in Chinese is bái pú táo jiǔ 白葡萄酒, meaning “white grape alcohol”. Confusingly, however, the commonly used Chinese word for “red wine” (As in the Shirazs and Malbecs of this world) is just hóng jiǔ 红酒, without any reference to a grape in the middle.
Hence:
Hóng jiǔ 红酒 = “Red wine” (Correct)
Bái jiǔ 白酒 ≠ “White wine” (Misses the mark, as now we are talking about Chinese firewater)
How Baijiu Is Made
Baijiu production remains fundamentally different from most Western distillation traditions due to its use of solid-state fermentation.
Sorghum is the most common grain base, though rice, wheat, corn and other cereals may be used depending on style and region.
A defining feature of baijiu is qū 曲 or 麴, a fermentation starter made from grains that cultivate naturally occurring yeasts, moulds and bacteria. Unlike pure yeast fermentation in whisky or vodka, qu introduces a
complex microbial ecosystem that drives flavour development.
There are different types of qu, including:
Dà Qū 大曲 (Large starter bricks, used in premium styles)
Xiǎo Qū 小曲(Smaller starter, often for lighter styles)
Fū Qū 麸曲 (Bran-based variants)
The type of qu significantly influences aroma profile and regional character.
Instead of fermenting in liquid mash, baijiu grains are fermented in solid form. Cooked grains are mixed with qu and placed into mud pits (particularly in Sichuan), stone-lined pits, ceramic jars, or, if you go to a more modern producer, into concrete or stainless vessels.
In strong aroma baijiu (More on this further below), centuries-old mud pits are prised for their resident microbial communities, which contribute fruity ester notes.
After fermentation, the solid mash is steam-distilled in so-called Zèng Tǒng 甑桶 stills, meaning “Steaming barrel”. These stills were traditionally made from wood, whereas today stainless steel is increasingly used. Steam injected from below travels through a solid-state fermentation mesh into a perforated vessel (The “barrel”). The grain bed gradually releases alcohol vapours with an ABV of 60-75% which are collected in a condenser at the top, from where the spirits runs off.
Distillates from multiple batches and fermentation cycles are then blended by master blenders to achieve the desired house style. The blending process can happen before or, if ageing is involved, after blending.
Baijiu can be, and in the case of more premium variants and brands, is often aged for several years. The aim of ageing baijiu is not to extract caramel and vanilla tones from wood. Instead, the goal is to stabilise the aroma, soften the alcohol and allow for better integration of the volatile compounds. Therefore, the vessels used are commonly made from ceramic, clay and other earthenware.
Understanding Baijiu Aroma Styles
Different to most Western spirits, baijiu is classified primarily by aroma style rather than raw material. There are three major aroma style categories.
Associated with Guizhou province and brands such as Moutai, Sauce Aroma (Jiàng Xiāng 酱香) baijiu undergoes multiple fermentation and distillation cycles and extended maturation.
Its flavour profile typically displays savoury, fermented soybean notes; roasted grain; umami depth and a long, warming finish. This style of baijiu is complex and often challenging for first-time drinkers.
The second style, Strong Aroma (Nóng Xiāng 浓香) baijiu, originates in Sichuan province, and it is the most widely consumed style.
When asked to describe what it tastes like, common descriptors would include fruity, often pineapple-like esters; sweet grain undertones; full-bodied and highly aromatic. Fermented in mud pits, it offers both depth of flavour and complexity.
Finally, Light Aroma (Qīng Xiāng 清香) baijiu is more common in northern China. This type is often fermented in ceramic jars rather than mud pits, giving it a much cleaner and dryer flavour profile.
The finish is shorter and less ester-heavy, and while it does sit on the more accessible end of the baijiu spectrum for newcomers to the category, you should still not expect a neutral spirit; the key to baijiu is raw material flavour retention and amplification, so prepare your palate accordingly.
Major Brands and Who Drinks Them
Kweichow Moutai
Probably the best-known Chinese baijiu on a global scale, the sauce aroma Kweichow Moutai (Frequently just referred to as Moutai) is also China’s most prestigious spirit. Its retail price of CNY2,500-3,000 per 500ml bottle (AUD510-620) is reflective of its ultra-premium positioning. No wonder then, that it used to be many government officials’ favourite choice to serve at formal dinners, since they were not paying for it out of their own pockets. Other typical consumers are senior execs, high-status business hosts, collectors and investors. If you want to seriously impress / get into someone’s good books in China, gift them a bottle of this.
Wuliangye and Luzhou Laojiao
Are both strong aroma baijius made from multiple grains; fermented in traditional mud pits. They tend to be popular with corporate professionals and upper-middle class consumers. At CNY800-1,500 per 500ml bottle (AUD160-310), they still command a hefty price tag, especially considering that the median monthly wage across China is estimated to be CNY6,000 (AUD1,230) in 2024. Even in the first-tier cities of Beijing, Shanghai Guangzhou and Shenzhen, where median salaries are twice as high, buying top tier baijiu can often meaning having to splurge a significant chunk of one’s monthly salary to afford it.
Fenjiu
Is a light aroma baijiu from Shanxi province which sells especially well in the North of China among young professionals who like to drink it in a more casual setting. At CNY300-700 (AUD60-140) per bottle, it is a much
more affordable choice, too.
Red Star Erguotou
This brings me back to the days when I was a foreign student in Beijing in the early 2000s. Erguotou was (and probably still is) the taxi drivers’ favourite tipple. Proudly working-class in its positioning, its aroma style is officially described as “light”, but to us it still tasted incredibly punchy and smelt of diesel. Very affordable at CNY100-300 (AUD20-60) per 500ml bottle.
The Impact of Anti-Corruption Campaigns on Premium Baijiu
For decades, premium baijiu — particularly brands like Moutai — was closely associated with official banquets and government-linked hospitality.
Beginning in 2012, China implemented a strict anti-corruption policy aimed at curbing excessive public spending. These policies discouraged extravagant banquets, luxury gifting and conspicuous consumption at official events.
As a result, government-related demand for ultra-premium baijiu declined sharply, as official receptions increasingly excluded alcohol, and high-end gifting became much more scrutinised. Unsurprisingly, the tightening of government-sponsored drinking also caused sales of many top-end Scotches and cognacs in China to plummet over the subsequent years. By some accounts, government-related spending on these ultra-premium brands had accounted for more than 80% of some of the affected brands’ total sales in China in the years prior to the crackdown.
How you drink it, and how not to lose face with your hosts
Traditionally, baijiu is consumed neat and at room temperature.
Different to virtually all Western spirits, for centuries baijiu has been consumed almost exclusively during meals, especially dinner. It is the dictionary definition of a social lubricant, as its sole purpose is to foster conviviality at the dinner table. Knocked-back from 10-30ml thimble or slightly tulip shaped shot glasses, it is not assessed based on its organoleptic merits. You choose the baijiu based on who you drink it with, and how much you want to impress them. The more you are perceived to have spent on the stuff, the more “face” you will gain among your fellow diners. Essentially, you are assessed based on your generosity and how much you can afford to splurge.
Given this context, it should not surprise anyone that a very strict etiquette exists around how baijiu is drunk around the dinner table.
Here are:
10 Handy Rules for Losing Your Wits Gracefully
Never pour your own glass. Always pour for others. Start with the most senior person at the table and finish with the driver. Someone else will pour for you, don’t worry, you are not going to miss out.
The first rounds of toasts will be initiated by your host. They will sing your praises, or your home country’s, the “Chinese-Australian friendship” or some other lofty, intangible construct designed to lower your guard.
Never praise yourself, your company or your home country. The key is flattery. Treat it like theatre, and it will be fun.
When you drink, do not sip. Shout: "干杯！Gān Bēi ("Gun Bay!"), then knock back the contents of the thimble in one go. The meaning of gan bei is "dry cup", so that's what you are supposed to achieve.
The goal of the game is to get drunk. The winner is the last man (Or sometimes woman) standing. He/she who can hold his/her own the longest, will be adored by all.
If foreigners are present, prepare to be assaulted with toasts. It is rude to refuse. They will use a myriad of tactics to try and get you drunk faster than themselves. This is deliberate.
When outnumbered, and one of your hosts initiates a toast with just you, one on one, invite everyone else at the table to drink together. Shout: “Yiqi” (Together!), “Dajia” (Everyone!), or “Dajia Yiqi” (Everybody together!) and proactively seek to touch every one else’s glass around you with your own. Remember, it is rude to refuse, and that same rule also applies to your hosts!
Always stand up when toasting and/or being invited to drink with someone. You may look them in the eyes, but do not stare aggressively; the winning formula is to smile, laugh, and always keep matters light-hearted.
The Chinese are not used to laugh at themselves. Keep the urge to use Aussie banter in check; anything that may be construed as rude or offensive will likely be taken that way. Do it the other way round: Over-flatter, over-embellish and practise humility. Remember: Pretend you are on a vaudeville stage, and play the role of the cunning yet humble jester.
A final word of caution: The reason why your host wants to get you drunk is to see how you behave and speak when your guard is down. Whilst certain indiscretions and crude behaviour will most easily be forgiven and forgotten (Boys will be boys), offending someone (Present or not) or revealing your company secrets will be remembered eternally. So never underestimate your hosts, no matter how much fun you are having with them.
Baijiu Beyond China
While baijiu remains dominant in China, international interest is growing.
In cities such as London, New York and Sydney, baijiu has gained attention among bartenders and craft spirits enthusiasts. Light aroma styles are used in vodka-style cocktails; strong aroma expressions appear in bold, fruit-forward drinks; and sauce aroma is added to flavoursome cocktails deliberately for a dash of umami complexity.
And while traditionally it is consumed neat, baijiu is slowly also starting to appear in new formats, such as low-ABV RTDs, sparkling mixed beverages, and Asia-centric premixed cocktails.
These innovations primarily target younger urban consumers in China’s major cities, as well as Chinese emigres abroad.
If you want to learn more about this fascinating and highly untapped source of spirits outside of China, or explore the many types of bulk baijiu that we can supply you with, please contact us, and we will be happy to knock back a thimble or two with you.
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